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  1. #21
    PokerOwned Master Rackinitin's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
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    245
    just calm down and let the cards work for you wait on the next hand or 2 to fall maybe by then the cards have changed and you will get a much deserved hand something that may be profitable.

  2. #22
    Elite PokerOwned Member JohnnyDeepStacks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    582
    Studying Harrington on Hold'em M factor will help you to better understand where your at with your stack.

    The M-Concept was introduced by Dan Harrington in his book "Harrington on Hold'em - Volume II: The Endgame".

    This system is called the M-factor, Magriel's M, often simply called "M" by many players.

    The criteria to calculate your M is as follows:

    ( Stack / ( BB + SB + ( Ante * Players ) ) ). In words its Your stack divided by big blind plus small blind Plus antes. Remember when you include the antes is the ante multiplied by then number of players at your table. So in your case the ante is 200. You would multiply 200 by 8 players at your table. 200 multiplied by 8 is 1600. So your formula would go like this:

    28,174 divided by 2000 + 1000 + 1600 = YOUR M

    Again thats:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12

    Its important to keep recalculating your M as the blind and ante levels change. So currently thats your M. But if there is only 5 mins to next blind level you will want to recalculate it.

    Now The Zones For Your M:

    Green Zone (M = + 20)

    All your basic play is available to you.

    Yellow Zone (M = 10 to 20)

    Small pairs and suited connectors are less useful as you are no longer getting good implied odds (chance of winning a huge pot from a small outlay).

    Orange Zone (M = 6-10)

    You have lost the ability to "re-steal", you have be picking up the blinds of the weaker players while avoiding the big stacks.

    Red Zone (M = 2-6)

    Here you almost have no option but to go "all in" or fold. Make sure you're first to enter the pot to give your opponent some fold equity.

    Dead Zone (M = 0-2)

    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards.


    Lets go a bit further in depth on how each zone should be played:

    Green zone
    You are in the comfort zone. Just keep playing premium hands in position and you're fine for the moment. Try to find the right balance to make the most out of pots and limit your contribution to pots when you lose.

    Yellow zone
    In the yellow zone, your main focus is to get back to the green zone, thus taking risks by playing more aggressive. Don't be a fool though, know when you're beat!

    Orange zone
    This is where the trouble starts. Your starting hand requirements are less tight. Start making some moves to pick up blinds when you're in position. You will be checking and calling more often than betting, as your stack doesn't allow you to bet enough to chase players out of a hand.

    Red zone
    Calling or betting will make you committed, so better wait for the first Ace or King and move all-in when first to act. You can expect to be called, as players will be eager to eliminate you. This gives you a decent chance to double, triple or even quadruple up and get you back in the orange zone.

    Dead zone
    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards. Who knows, maybe Lady Luck is on your side.

    So Finally Your M calculated In This Instance Is:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12 = Orange Zone borderline Red Zone

    You should be all in or fold but I would opt to fold in this spot. Hope this helps better. Calculating your M becomes easy once you get used to it. Also don't forget to check and see when next blind level is (how much time till next blind level) and re-calculate often. Good Luck.

    If you practice this calculation often enough, it will become second nature and you will just know without calculating approximately what your M is and how you should be playing at that level with your stack size. Again GL
    Last edited by JohnnyDeepStacks; 02-28-2014 at 07:54 AM.

    JDS boobytrap spelled backwards is partyboob
    PooffyFooffy omg I need to play there more, were u in da game?
    JDS @PooffyFooffy no Pooffy its just a fun fact

  3. #23
    Library Master Champion eqgh5uea's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    2,534
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyDeepStacks View Post
    Studying Harrington on Hold'em M factor will help you to better understand where your at with your stack.

    The M-Concept was introduced by Dan Harrington in his book "Harrington on Hold'em - Volume II: The Endgame".

    This system is called the M-factor, Magriel's M, often simply called "M" by many players.

    The criteria to calculate your M is as follows:

    ( Stack / ( BB + SB + ( Ante * Players ) ) ). In words its Your stack divided by big blind plus small blind Plus antes. Remember when you include the antes is the ante multiplied by then number of players at your table. So in your case the ante is 200. You would multiply 200 by 8 players at your table. 200 multiplied by 8 is 1600. So your formula would go like this:

    28,174 divided by 2000 + 1000 + 1600 = YOUR M

    Again thats:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12

    Its important to keep recalculating your M as the blind and ante levels change. So currently thats your M. But if there is only 5 mins to next blind level you will want to recalculate it.

    Now The Zones For Your M:

    Green Zone (M = + 20)

    All your basic play is available to you.

    Yellow Zone (M = 10 to 20)

    Small pairs and suited connectors are less useful as you are no longer getting good implied odds (chance of winning a huge pot from a small outlay).

    Orange Zone (M = 6-10)

    You have lost the ability to "re-steal", you have be picking up the blinds of the weaker players while avoiding the big stacks.

    Red Zone (M = 2-6)

    Here you almost have no option but to go "all in" or fold. Make sure you're first to enter the pot to give your opponent some fold equity.

    Dead Zone (M = 0-2)

    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards.


    Lets go a bit further in depth on how each zone should be played:

    Green zone
    You are in the comfort zone. Just keep playing premium hands in position and you're fine for the moment. Try to find the right balance to make the most out of pots and limit your contribution to pots when you lose.

    Yellow zone
    In the yellow zone, your main focus is to get back to the green zone, thus taking risks by playing more aggressive. Don't be a fool though, know when you're beat!

    Orange zone
    This is where the trouble starts. Your starting hand requirements are less tight. Start making some moves to pick up blinds when you're in position. You will be checking and calling more often than betting, as your stack doesn't allow you to bet enough to chase players out of a hand.

    Red zone
    Calling or betting will make you committed, so better wait for the first Ace or King and move all-in when first to act. You can expect to be called, as players will be eager to eliminate you. This gives you a decent chance to double, triple or even quadruple up and get you back in the orange zone.

    Dead zone
    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards. Who knows, maybe Lady Luck is on your side.

    So Finally Your M calculated In This Instance Is:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12 = Orange Zone borderline Red Zone

    You should be all in or fold but I would opt to fold in this spot. Hope this helps better. Calculating your M becomes easy once you get used to it. Also don't forget to check and see when next blind level is (how much time till next blind level) and re-calculate often. Good Luck.

    If you practice this calculation often enough, it will become second nature and you will just know without calculating approximately what your M is and how you should be playing at that level with your stack size. Again GL
    Excellent post!
    "We have met the enemy and they are ours; two ships, two brigs, one schooner and one sloop." --- O.H. Perry

  4. #24
    PokerOwned Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    357
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyDeepStacks View Post
    Studying Harrington on Hold'em M factor will help you to better understand where your at with your stack.

    The M-Concept was introduced by Dan Harrington in his book "Harrington on Hold'em - Volume II: The Endgame".

    This system is called the M-factor, Magriel's M, often simply called "M" by many players.

    The criteria to calculate your M is as follows:

    ( Stack / ( BB + SB + ( Ante * Players ) ) ). In words its Your stack divided by big blind plus small blind Plus antes. Remember when you include the antes is the ante multiplied by then number of players at your table. So in your case the ante is 200. You would multiply 200 by 8 players at your table. 200 multiplied by 8 is 1600. So your formula would go like this:

    28,174 divided by 2000 + 1000 + 1600 = YOUR M

    Again thats:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12

    Its important to keep recalculating your M as the blind and ante levels change. So currently thats your M. But if there is only 5 mins to next blind level you will want to recalculate it.

    Now The Zones For Your M:

    Green Zone (M = + 20)

    All your basic play is available to you.

    Yellow Zone (M = 10 to 20)

    Small pairs and suited connectors are less useful as you are no longer getting good implied odds (chance of winning a huge pot from a small outlay).

    Orange Zone (M = 6-10)

    You have lost the ability to "re-steal", you have be picking up the blinds of the weaker players while avoiding the big stacks.

    Red Zone (M = 2-6)

    Here you almost have no option but to go "all in" or fold. Make sure you're first to enter the pot to give your opponent some fold equity.

    Dead Zone (M = 0-2)

    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards.


    Lets go a bit further in depth on how each zone should be played:

    Green zone
    You are in the comfort zone. Just keep playing premium hands in position and you're fine for the moment. Try to find the right balance to make the most out of pots and limit your contribution to pots when you lose.

    Yellow zone
    In the yellow zone, your main focus is to get back to the green zone, thus taking risks by playing more aggressive. Don't be a fool though, know when you're beat!

    Orange zone
    This is where the trouble starts. Your starting hand requirements are less tight. Start making some moves to pick up blinds when you're in position. You will be checking and calling more often than betting, as your stack doesn't allow you to bet enough to chase players out of a hand.

    Red zone
    Calling or betting will make you committed, so better wait for the first Ace or King and move all-in when first to act. You can expect to be called, as players will be eager to eliminate you. This gives you a decent chance to double, triple or even quadruple up and get you back in the orange zone.

    Dead zone
    Calling is no longer an option. If nobody has opened the pot, you might as well go all-in with any two cards. Who knows, maybe Lady Luck is on your side.

    So Finally Your M calculated In This Instance Is:

    ( 28,174 / ( 2000 + 1000 + ( 200 * 8 ) ) ) = Your M 6.12 = Orange Zone borderline Red Zone

    You should be all in or fold but I would opt to fold in this spot. Hope this helps better. Calculating your M becomes easy once you get used to it. Also don't forget to check and see when next blind level is (how much time till next blind level) and re-calculate often. Good Luck.

    If you practice this calculation often enough, it will become second nature and you will just know without calculating approximately what your M is and how you should be playing at that level with your stack size. Again GL
    I think most people would actually shove in this spot. It's a turbo tourney so he needs to double sooner than later and pocket 8s is an excellent hand to shove pre. It only has to go through 6 players and usually you'll be flipping than being dominated. If everyone folds then he increases his stack by over 15%
    Last edited by lorenz0wns; 03-14-2014 at 06:22 PM.

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